Tuesday, May 21, 2013

The Dark Continent


My journeys through Africa always conjure up a mélange of random thoughts and an incessant supply of sighs that accompany the several incidents of infrastructural failures and civil disorders.

The West African region has always been subjected to travel advisories by hyper sensitive foreign missions and buckled up military attaches – exotic dangerous zones that are on the wish list of every adrenaline junkie. 

From bicycle world wanderers to war zone contractors, some of these countries still boast of regions that have barely tasted the first dew drops of 21st century civilization ( of course, barring the Indian Gujaratis & the Lebanese businessmen – who inhibit these lands for not the rush or the exoticism but purely for money, such embarrassing pussies..Fuck).

Understanding the colonial past, the current political disarray and the systematic breakdown of development efforts would clearly make it easy for any outsider to realize why everyone from your average taxi driver to the uninterested restaurant server looks visibly upset and frustrated.

Most of the low rung able bodied male workforce you come across has served in the military, the rebel 
militia, as an armed criminal or just as an angry violent man protecting his family and property. Well, there is no sequence or pattern to those tenures and chances are that he has served both as Military and rebel at different stages. (Well, whoever pays on time gets his loyalty for sure!)

Ok, you have to give it to the Belgians and the French that they taught their subjects how to bake some good fuckin bread and come up with some great results from the oven. The beers aren’t bad too !

Having said that, they murdered and brutalized their ‘black slaves’ with such ease and comfort that it would make Adolf Hitler turn in his grave and feel bad about being soft on his concentration camp tenants. The standing instruction for the Belgian & French colonists was to kill any ethnic subject on the first instance of disobedience. Non compliance was subjective and something as small as refusing to do the dishes on the master’s command was a good enough reason to land up in the pit with a bloody hole to the chest.


Since this is not a history lesson and the world has moved on – let’s get the shit straight here – West African colonies had their fair share of brutality, subjugation and humiliation at the hands of their masters. This history of torture and colonization can be a major production mill for frustration when countries like DRC are plush with natural resources and have no reason to experience poverty or to have its citizens treated like dirt worldwide. (Till early 2000s, people used to randomly stumble upon diamonds while walking along the Congo river in the capital city Kinshasa – that does say SOMETHING about their mineral wealth abundance).

The world changes and so do the methods and ploys that the sinister human brain comes up with. The new colonists don’t swear by the gun (the US failed in Iraq/Afghanistan) but rather by carving up an intricate and complex economic web of bribing the fat cats- aid grants- technology dependence and a fair bit of surrogate arm twisting in the political arena.

Taking the example of the Democratic Republic of Congo here – apart from being well endowed, the men here are also known to be trigger happy and extremely violent. Studies and historical memoirs prove it was not like that in the beginning. The inhabitants of the region were the standard Hollywood variety jungle people who would  welcome all- lets wear leaves around our ass and dance in a circle –happy go lucky tribals who got tricked by the cap wearing white explorers and later on by the innocent looking cross wielding missionaries. 
On a side note, I always like the mystery around the nuns - I mean the missionaries have a sex position named after them, but anyway, back to the Africa analysis.

The DRC of today is a country plagued with rampant corruption, infrastructure breakdown (or the lack of it), abject poverty and a violent civil war that has claimed the most lives after the 2nd world war.

But these guys aren’t Muslims and they are black – There will be no Muslim groups crying for them like they whine about Palestine all the time. The West doesn’t give a fuck either, and the Asians – well let’s just say the Asians are the new Jews. In all this chaos, it’s the Chinese (and to some extent the Indians) who feel it’s their turn to suck the juices of bliss in this otherwise supposedly god forsaken land.

At the peak of the civil war in the 90s that lasted about 8 years, there were close to 10,000 casualties a day in Congo alone. Final casualty figures cross the 5 million mark. A million Hutu civilians died in Rwanda as well. The civil war still rages in the country’s restive eastern part as of 2013.

But hey! The world’s a crazy place, shit happens all the time, you can’t just hold on to some statistical numbers and get all melodramatic about it. There is Swine flu and I-phone 6 to worry about. (not to mention Argo beat Lincoln at the Oscars, Go Argo !)

Today’s West Africa needs international intervention – the western arms industry has been fuelling the civil wars here to keep their weapons business greased up with fresh supply orders. Sponsoring a dictator and then instigating his rival to throw the first one off the grid has become a morbid fun game for some of the western countries who see it in their best interest to keep Africa under-developed. The international intervention we are talking about involves stopping undue interventions in someone else’s mess. Let them fight it out, figure it out, learn to evolve and handle their own mess.

Some critics might disagree with me and claim that whatever little sanity or civilized lifestyle that was imparted in Africa, was indeed a blessing to those inhabitants. Well, Ethiopia stands out as a clear example of a country that staved off the colonial powers and has now turned out to be a pretty decent place – the people are warm, welcoming and anything but violent.

But all my thoughts about the situation perhaps seem to be an implausible vile rambling of a rabid uncouth South Asian. After all, where else can the Americans adopt cute black babies from without much paperwork – they make such adorable pets. The game safaris, the exorbitant per diem payments for the contract work to build temporary ‘bus sheds’ and the great employment opportunities that come with development work in these countries. I have honestly met so many white ‘advisors and contractors’ that advise and consult on ridiculous projects. That money could have probably fed thousands of starving IDPs (Internally displaced refugees).

But looking at it, paying $600/day to an American consultant at the Health Ministry who adds value to the society by training people on the benefits of using soap properly after taking a dump is a much bigger priority than feeding let’s say a bunch of dying infants in a refugee camp. WHAT IF someone handled their powdered milk jar with unwashed hands, that would be so uncool.

A great continent that once had its own thing going on – the rich cultural heritage, the vast expanses of pristine virgin natural wonders, music-tribal arts and tradition - will only move in the direction of mayhem in the foreseeable future.

Its inhabitants who could have been suave and educated will forever be condemned and be looked upon suspiciously for their aggressive demeanor and their tendency to rob you at the first available instance. Guess what, it is the outsiders who taught them this violence and the art of robbery – and now, they should forever be destined to live-thrive-survive-connive on the Dark Continent.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

The great Indian rope trick - Babu Edition


Holy cows, magic ropes, flying carpets, spicy food and head wobbling touts at public places – the common perception of India in the hearts & minds of every tourist that wants to bestow his tourist dollars to this gracious motherland called India.

To my brothers, sisters and fellow corrupt douchebags of this great nation, let me embark on this literary journey to introduce you to the world of exported Babudom. Yes, you guessed it right – IFS – Indian Foreign Services, our diplomatic staff in the distant lands.

The crisp ironed shirt wearing Babus who are the flag bearers of this great nation and its legacy to people in far away countries. They enjoy diplomatic immunity, fantastic foreign exchange salary, free travel and a lot of other perks that include the privilege of being allowed to take one servant along to the land of their posting.
Seems perfect, doesn’t it?

What more could a Babu ask for? If not for this little blessing right from the Headquarters of Bhagwan via Fedex, they would have been sitting in some pan-stained dusty office in India.



This is the stage in my little rambling when I throw a bit more light on the Indian rope trick and emphasize on how it has quintessentially proved time and again – ‘You can take an Indian out of India, but you can’t take the Indian out of him’. Magical words I tell you, never do they seem truer and so etched in stone than in Indian embassies abroad. Always makes me emotional, sniff.

 The rope trick involves creating a paper rope, no no, not a physical rope you silly reader, a rope of documentation requirements that is meant to go around the neck of a visa applicant.

Only steel cuts steel, only diamond cuts diamond – similarly, only paper cuts paper. Kapish ? catch my drift ? Papers come in various varieties. Certificates, letters, mark-sheets, sale deeds, agreements and of course Bank notes.

Case 1: A babu working at the Indian embassy at Toronto earns roughly $55 an hour, not to it is tax free. A 2 year tenure should easily allow him to come back home and buy a decent apartment or a 250 gaj plot in the suburbs (of course purely as an investment, he is a foreign return diplomatique babu – he don’t stay in no suburbs).

His stature and salary structure do not desist him in indulging what he thinks is part of his SLA with the government of India and its citizens.

Asking for money.

The Number 1 SLA/KPI every babu is appraised on during his ACR/year end review.

The bribe amount starts at $50 and goes down to $20 (C’mon, bargaining is fun and a habit too!)

 Some of the people who were asked for a $20 bribe were so offended by the level to which Babudom had stooped. They had expected a ‘foreign posted’ babu to show some more self respect and asked for at least $35. Several bribe givers, oh..I meant, peasants angrily put an extra $10 in the bribe to bring it to a respectable amount. True story, by god.

Case 2: Diplomatic Staff at Indian embassy in Bangkok made an elderly C level Italian executive run around in circles for his visa for a simple reason. He had applied for an employment visa to India and his ‘age proof’ was missing from his documents.

Some of you are probably smiling victoriously right now, claiming to know what comes next.

Yes, his passport and birth certificate were not considered as authentic enough to substantiate his date of birth.

Exasperated, frustrated – the Italian asked the magical rope trick trigger question, about what would be considered a DOB proof.

The Babu goes : “ 10th ka certificate hai aapke paas ?

The noose of the Indian rope fastened, the Italian’s worst nightmare was now a real life drama.

The magic trick was now complete.

Bharat Mata ki Jai.